DIY Action Camera Gimbal Build Tips for Smooth Footage

Build your own DIY action camera gimbal to achieve buttery-smooth footage without breaking the bank—using affordable, off-the-shelf components and simple 3D-printed parts. Master motor calibration and weight balance to eliminate shaky video and unlock professional-grade stabilization for your action shots. With the right design and a few key tips, you can create a reliable, custom gimbal tailored to your camera setup.

Key Takeaways

• Choose lightweight materials: Reduces motor strain for smoother stabilization.
• Balance is critical: Properly align camera weight to avoid shaky footage.
• Use high-torque motors: Ensures stability even during rapid movements.
• Test before finalizing: Check gimbal response with quick movement tests.
• Secure wiring: Prevents loose connections that disrupt performance.
• Calibrate regularly: Maintains accuracy and prolongs gimbal lifespan.

Why Build Your Own Action Camera Gimbal?

Ever filmed a skateboard trick or a mountain bike descent only to end up with shaky, unwatchable footage? You’re not alone. Even the best action cameras like GoPros or DJI Osmo Action struggle with motion blur and micro-jitters during fast-paced activities. While commercial gimbals exist, they can cost hundreds of dollars—and sometimes, you just don’t need all the bells and whistles. That’s where a DIY action camera gimbal comes in.

I remember my first attempt at building one. I was hiking in the Rockies, trying to capture sunrise over a ridge, and my handheld GoPro footage looked like it was shot during an earthquake. Frustrated, I started researching stabilization solutions. After testing a few off-the-shelf gimbals and realizing I didn’t need advanced features like follow focus or app control, I decided to build my own. Not only did I save money, but I also learned a ton about mechanics, motors, and balance. Plus, there’s something deeply satisfying about using gear you’ve built yourself.

Understanding the Basics: How Gimbals Work

Before diving into construction, it helps to know how gimbals actually stabilize your footage. A gimbal uses motors and sensors to counteract movement. When your hand shakes or the camera tilts, gyroscopic sensors detect the motion, and brushless motors rotate the camera in the opposite direction—keeping it level. This is called active stabilization, and it’s what separates a shaky handheld shot from buttery smooth cinematic footage.

Key Components of a Gimbal

At its core, a DIY action camera gimbal needs four main parts:

• Frame/Structure: The physical housing that holds everything together. Usually made from lightweight, rigid materials like carbon fiber, aluminum, or 3D-printed plastic.
• Brushless Motors: These are the workhorses. They respond quickly to sensor input and rotate the camera on three axes: pitch (up/down), roll (side tilt), and yaw (left/right).
• Control Board (Flight Controller): This is the brain. It reads data from the IMU (Inertial Measurement Unit) and tells the motors how to move. Popular choices include the MPU-6050 sensor paired with an Arduino or a dedicated gimbal controller like the SimpleBGC.
• Power Supply: A LiPo battery (typically 2S or 3S) powers both the motors and the control board.

Single vs. Dual vs. Triple Axis

Most commercial gimbals are 3-axis, but for DIY builds, you can start simpler:

• Single-axis: Stabilizes only pitch. Great for basic handheld use or mounting on a helmet where roll and yaw are less critical. Easiest to build and tune.
• Dual-axis: Adds roll stabilization. Ideal for bike mounts or handheld shots with lateral movement.
• Triple-axis: Full stabilization. Best for dynamic action shots, but harder to balance and tune. Requires precise motor alignment and calibration.

Tip: Start with a single-axis build if you’re new. You’ll learn the principles of balance, motor response, and PID tuning—skills that transfer directly to more complex builds.

Essential Tools and Materials for Your Build

You don’t need a full workshop to build a DIY action camera gimbal, but having the right tools makes the process smoother and safer. Here’s what I recommend based on my own builds and community feedback.

Must-Have Tools

• 3D Printer (optional but highly recommended): Lets you design custom brackets and motor mounts. PLA or ABS filament works well. If you don’t have one, check local makerspaces or online 3D printing services.
• Soldering Iron & Solder: For connecting wires to motors and the control board. Use heat shrink tubing to insulate connections.
• Digital Multimeter: Essential for checking voltage, continuity, and diagnosing wiring issues.
• Calipers & Ruler: For measuring motor shaft size, camera dimensions, and frame tolerances.
• Small Screwdrivers & Allen Keys: For assembling motors and frame components.
• Hot Glue Gun or Epoxy: Useful for securing wires or reinforcing joints.

Core Components to Buy

Here’s a list of parts I’ve used successfully in multiple builds:

• Brushless Motors: Look for “gimbal motors” or “brushless gimbal motors.” Popular models include the DJI M600 (for larger cameras) or T-Motor MN2206 (compact and powerful). For action cams, 150–250W motors work well.
• Control Board: The SimpleBGC 3.0 (BaseCam) is beginner-friendly with a GUI for tuning. The Storm32 is more advanced but offers better customization.
• IMU Sensor: Usually built into the control board (like MPU-6050). Ensure it’s properly mounted and isolated from vibrations.
• LiPo Battery: 2S (7.4V) or 3S (11.1V). Use a 500–1000mAh battery for longer runtime. Always use a balance charger.
• Wiring & Connectors: 18–22 AWG silicone wire, JST connectors for batteries, and motor connectors (usually 2mm bullet connectors).
• Camera Mounting Plate: 3D-print or buy a standard GoPro-style mount. Make sure it’s adjustable for center of gravity.

Budget-Friendly Alternatives

Want to keep costs under $100? Try these swaps:

• Use salvaged brushless motors from old drones or RC planes.
• Repurpose a 3D-printed phone gimbal frame and upgrade the motors.
• Buy a DIY gimbal kit online (~$60–$80) with motors, board, and frame—then customize it.

Personal tip: I once used a broken drone’s motors in my first build. They weren’t perfect, but they worked—and saved me $40. Sometimes, “good enough” is just right for learning.

Step-by-Step Assembly Guide

Now comes the fun part: putting it all together. This section walks you through building a dual-axis DIY action camera gimbal—a sweet spot between simplicity and effectiveness. I’ll use a 3D-printed frame and SimpleBGC board as the example.

Step 1: Design or Print the Frame

Download a free STL file from sites like Thingiverse or design your own using Tinkercad or Fusion 360. Key design tips:

• Keep the frame lightweight but stiff. Avoid thin, flexible arms.
• Ensure the camera sits at the center of rotation for each motor. Misalignment causes wobble.
• Include cutouts for wiring and battery access.
• Add rubber grommets or silicone pads to dampen vibrations.

Example: I used a “GoPro Hero 10 Gimbal Frame” design from Thingiverse. It had pre-drilled holes for MN2206 motors and a built-in battery compartment.

Step 2: Mount the Motors

1. Attach the pitch motor (up/down) to the main frame. Secure with screws or epoxy.
2. Attach the roll motor to the pitch motor’s rotating arm. This creates the dual-axis setup.
3. Ensure both motors spin freely without binding. Use a drop of light machine oil on bearings if needed.

Pro tip: Before tightening, power the motors briefly (via control board) to check rotation direction. If a motor spins the wrong way, swap two of its three wires.

Step 3: Install the Camera and Balance It

This is critical—an unbalanced gimbal will vibrate or overheat motors.

• Mount your action camera (e.g., GoPro) using the 3D-printed plate or a standard GoPro mount.
• Adjust the camera’s position until it’s perfectly balanced on both axes. Use a level or hang the gimbal from a string to test.
• If the camera tilts forward, slide the mounting plate backward. If it wobbles side-to-side, adjust the roll arm.

Real-world test: I once spent 45 minutes adjusting a GoPro’s position by 2mm increments. The difference between “almost balanced” and “perfect” was night and day.

Step 4: Wire Everything Up

Follow the SimpleBGC wiring diagram:

• Connect each motor’s three wires to the board’s motor outputs (M1, M2, M3).
• Plug the IMU sensor into the board (if not integrated).
• Wire the battery to the board’s power input. Use a switch if possible.
• Add a power indicator LED (optional but helpful).

Safety note: Always disconnect the battery before wiring. Double-check polarity to avoid frying the board.

Step 5: Upload Firmware and Calibrate

1. Download the SimpleBGC GUI (free from BaseCam’s site).
2. Connect the board to your PC via USB.
3. Upload the latest firmware.
4. Run the IMU calibration—place the gimbal on a flat, stable surface and follow on-screen instructions.
5. Set motor directions and PID values (more on this next).

Once calibrated, power on the gimbal. The motors should hum softly and keep the camera level.

Tuning Your Gimbal: PID and Performance

Building the gimbal is only half the battle. The real magic happens during tuning. A poorly tuned gimbal might stabilize in one direction but wobble in another. This is where PID values come in.

What Are PID Values?

PID stands for Proportional, Integral, Derivative—a control algorithm that tells the motors how to respond to motion. Each value affects performance differently:

• P (Proportional): How aggressively the motor corrects movement. Too high = overshoot and oscillation. Too low = sluggish response.
• I (Integral): Corrects small, persistent errors (like slow drift). Too high = slow wobble. Too low = camera drifts over time.
• D (Derivative): Dampens rapid changes. Helps reduce vibration and overshoot. Too high = jerky movements.

How to Tune PID Values

Start with the SimpleBGC default values (usually P=15, I=10, D=0 for each axis). Then follow this process:

1. Increase P until the gimbal starts to wobble. Then reduce it slightly (e.g., 12).
2. Increase I until the camera stops drifting. Watch for slow oscillations.
3. Add a small D value (1–3) to smooth out vibrations.
4. Test each axis separately. Move the gimbal manually and observe behavior.
5. Use the “Motor Test” feature in SimpleBGC to check response without power.

Real-world example: My first tune had P=20—too high. The gimbal overcorrected and shook violently. Lowering it to 13 fixed the issue. It took three tries to get it right.

Additional Tuning Tips

• Motor Current: Adjust in the GUI. Too low = weak stabilization. Too high = overheating. Start at 70% of max.
• Filter Settings: Enable “Low Pass Filter” to reduce high-frequency vibrations (e.g., from walking).
• Smoothing: Use the “Smoothing” setting for cinematic pans. Too much = laggy response.
• Profile Switching: Save different PID profiles for different activities (e.g., “Bike Ride” vs. “Handheld Walk”).

Pro tip: Record test footage after each adjustment. Compare clips to see what works.

Real-World Testing and Common Issues

You’ve built it, tuned it, and powered it on. Now it’s time to test it in the real world. This is where you’ll discover what works—and what doesn’t.

Test Scenarios

Try these common use cases:

• Handheld walking: Film a 30-second walk. Look for micro-shakes and horizon drift.
• Bike mount: Attach to your handlebars. Check for vibration from road bumps.
• Helmet mount: Ride a bike or skateboard. Test head movement and stabilization.
• Low-light filming: Gimbals can introduce subtle wobble in long exposures. Test at night.

Common Problems and Fixes

Issue	Possible Cause	Solution
Motor overheating	High PID values or low motor current	Reduce P/I values; increase motor current
Wobbling or oscillation	Unbalanced camera or high P value	Rebalance; reduce P; add D value
Camera drifts slowly	Low I value or IMU calibration error	Increase I; recalibrate IMU
Jittery footage	Vibrations from frame or motor noise	Add rubber dampeners; check motor alignment
Short battery life	High motor load or inefficient wiring	Use a larger battery; check for loose connections

Personal story: During a bike test, my gimbal started vibrating violently after 10 minutes. I realized the roll motor was loose—just one screw had backed out. A simple fix, but a big lesson in pre-test checks.

Improving Performance

• Add a counterweight: If the camera is too light, add a small weight to the opposite side for better balance.
• Use a follow focus (optional): Add a potentiometer to control motor position manually—great for panning shots.
• Upgrade motors: If you need more power, switch to higher-torque motors (e.g., MN3110).
• Weatherproof it: Use conformal coating on the board and seal joints for outdoor use.

Final Thoughts: Is a DIY Gimbal Worth It?

After building and testing several DIY action camera gimbals, I can confidently say: yes, it’s worth it—but with caveats. You won’t get the polish of a DJI Ronin, but you’ll gain a deeper understanding of how stabilization works. And for under $100, you can build a gimbal that performs 80–90% as well as a $300 commercial model.

The biggest benefit? Customization. Need a gimbal for a specific activity, like drone racing or mountain biking? You can design it exactly how you want. Want to experiment with AI tracking or gesture control? Add a Raspberry Pi and go wild. The possibilities are endless.

That said, DIY isn’t for everyone. If you’re short on time, lack tools, or just want plug-and-play performance, a commercial gimbal might be better. But if you enjoy tinkering, learning, and creating something unique, a DIY build is incredibly rewarding.

My current gimbal—a 3-axis, 3D-printed, Arduino-powered rig—has survived rain, dust, and multiple crashes. It’s not perfect, but it’s mine. And every time I use it, I’m reminded of the joy of building, failing, and finally succeeding.

So grab your tools, download a frame design, and start building. Your next adventure deserves smooth, cinematic footage—and with a DIY action camera gimbal, you’ve got the power to make it happen.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is a DIY action camera gimbal, and why should I build one?

A DIY action camera gimbal is a handheld stabilizer you assemble yourself to eliminate shaky footage. Building one lets you customize features like motor strength and battery life while saving money compared to commercial options.

Which motors are best for a DIY action camera gimbal?

Brushless motors (like 2208 or 2306 models) are ideal for smooth, precise movements. Ensure your motors have enough torque to handle your camera’s weight, especially for fast action shots.

How do I balance my action camera on a DIY gimbal?

Adjust the camera position on the gimbal arms until it stays level without tilting. Proper balance reduces motor strain and improves stabilization—check alignment before every shoot.

What materials work best for a DIY gimbal frame?

Lightweight, rigid materials like carbon fiber or aluminum prevent vibrations. 3D-printed PLA parts are affordable but may lack durability for extreme conditions.

Can I use a DIY action camera gimbal with any action cam?

Most gimbals support popular models like GoPro or DJI Osmo Action if the mounting plate matches. Verify your camera’s size and weight compatibility with your gimbal’s motor capacity.

How do I calibrate a DIY gimbal for smooth footage?

Use your gimbal’s app (e.g., Betaflight or custom firmware) to fine-tune PID settings and motor responsiveness. Test in small movements, adjusting until vibrations and wobbles are minimized.