DIY Kayak Action Camera Mount Easy Build Guide

Capture every kayaking adventure with a custom DIY kayak action camera mount that’s easy to build and costs a fraction of commercial options. Using basic materials like PVC pipe, waterproof adhesive, and a standard camera screw, you can create a secure, adjustable, and water-ready mount in under an hour—perfect for hands-free filming on rough waters.

Key Takeaways

• Use PVC pipe for a lightweight, durable mount base.
• Attach with hose clamps for secure, adjustable camera positioning.
• Seal all joints to prevent water damage and ensure longevity.
• Test stability in calm water before filming intense action.
• Choose a low center of gravity to avoid tipping your kayak.
• Use rubber padding to reduce vibration and protect your camera.

Why You Need a DIY Kayak Action Camera Mount

Imagine gliding across a glassy lake at sunrise, the mist rising off the water, your paddle slicing through the silence. Now imagine capturing that moment perfectly—not just in memory, but on camera. That’s where a DIY kayak action camera mount comes in. Whether you’re a weekend warrior or a seasoned kayak angler, having a reliable way to record your adventures makes every trip more meaningful. And the best part? You don’t need to spend a fortune on a commercial mount. With a few tools and some creativity, you can build one yourself that’s just as good—or even better—than store-bought options.

I remember my first kayak trip with a GoPro. I used the cheapest suction cup mount I could find, thinking it would hold up. Spoiler: it didn’t. Halfway through a choppy stretch, the mount let go, and my camera sank into the depths like a stone. I spent the rest of the trip replaying the “what ifs” instead of enjoying the scenery. That day taught me two things: commercial mounts can fail, and a DIY kayak action camera mount built with care and the right materials can save your gear—and your memories. Since then, I’ve built several mounts, refined my techniques, and learned what works (and what doesn’t). In this guide, I’ll walk you through everything you need to know to make your own reliable, cost-effective camera mount for kayaking.

Choosing the Right Camera and Mounting Location

Pick a Camera That Fits Your Needs

Before you start building, make sure your action camera is up to the task. Most popular models like GoPro, DJI Action, and Insta360 are waterproof and rugged, but not all are equally suited for kayaking. Consider these factors:

• Waterproof rating: Even if your camera is waterproof, using a housing adds extra protection. A minimum IPX8 rating is ideal.
• Mount compatibility: Most action cameras use a standard 3-prong mount. This makes DIY builds easier since you can buy or 3D-print adapters.
• Field of view: Wide-angle lenses capture more of the environment, which is great for kayaking. But if you’re filming fish or details, a medium FOV might be better.
• Battery life: Longer trips need longer battery life. Consider a camera with swappable batteries or external power options.

For example, my go-to is a GoPro Hero 11 with a protective housing. It’s durable, has excellent stabilization, and the battery lasts about 90 minutes—perfect for half-day trips. If you’re on a budget, older models like the Hero 8 or 9 still work great and are often discounted.

Where to Mount: Pros and Cons of Each Spot

Where you place your mount affects your footage and safety. Here are the most common spots and what to consider:

• Deck (front or back): Great for wide-angle shots of the water ahead or behind. Easy to access, but can get splashed. Use a raised mount to avoid water on the lens.
• Gunwale (side rail): Offers a unique low-angle view, especially good for fishing or paddling action. Be careful not to snag on gear or branches.
• Kayak seat: Provides a stable, central view. Ideal for vlogging or capturing your paddling technique. Just make sure it doesn’t obstruct your movement.
• Self-mounted (on your body): Using a chest or head strap gives a first-person perspective. But it’s not a replacement for a kayak-mounted camera—use both for variety.
• Under-deck (inverted): Rare but possible with a clear housing. Captures underwater views, but hard to adjust and risks damage from debris.

My favorite is the front deck, about 6 inches behind the bow. It gives a clean view of the water, avoids paddle splash, and is easy to reach if I need to adjust the camera. But if I’m fishing, I’ll mount it on the gunwale for a close-up of my rod and line.

Materials and Tools You’ll Need

Essential Materials for a Durable Build

You don’t need fancy gear—just a few key items. Here’s what I always keep in my DIY toolkit:

• Aluminum or stainless steel rod (1/4″ or 3/8″ diameter): This forms the backbone of your mount. Aluminum is lighter, stainless steel is stronger. I prefer stainless for saltwater trips.
• PVC or nylon tubing (1/2″ outer diameter): Covers the metal rod to prevent scratches and add grip. Cut to 6–12 inches depending on your design.
• Action camera mount base (3-prong or screw-on): Buy a spare from Amazon or repurpose an old one. Make sure it’s compatible with your camera.
• Stainless steel hose clamps (2–3): These secure the mount to your kayak. Look for ones with rubber liners to avoid scratching the hull.
• Epoxy or marine-grade adhesive: For permanent bonds. I use JB Weld or 3M 5200 for extra strength.
• Rubber or silicone pads: Place between the mount and kayak to prevent slipping and reduce vibration.
• Zip ties and electrical tape: For temporary fixes or bundling wires.

Optional but helpful: a small ball head or swivel joint (like those used for tripods) to adjust the camera angle easily.

Tools for Assembly and Safety

You’ll need a few basic tools. Most are probably already in your garage:

• Hacksaw or pipe cutter: To cut the metal rod and PVC tubing to size.
• Drill and bits: For pilot holes if you’re bolting through the kayak (rarely needed with hose clamps).
• Sandpaper or file: Smooth rough edges on cut metal.
• Wrench or pliers: To tighten hose clamps.
• Measuring tape and marker: For precise placement.
• Safety gear: Gloves and safety glasses when cutting or drilling.

I once tried to cut a stainless steel rod with a kitchen knife. Let’s just say it didn’t end well. Invest in a proper hacksaw—your fingers will thank you.

Step-by-Step DIY Mount Construction

Design Your Mount: Simple vs. Advanced Options

Start with a simple design. You can always upgrade later. Here are two popular styles:

• L-shaped deck mount: The rod bends at 90 degrees, with the camera at the top and the base clamped to the deck. Easy to build and adjust.
• Straight pole with ball head: A vertical rod with a ball head at the top for 360-degree camera movement. Great for dynamic shots.

For beginners, I recommend the L-shape. It’s stable, low-profile, and won’t wobble in choppy water. If you want more flexibility, go for the straight pole with a ball head.

Assembly: From Rod to Ready-to-Use Mount

Follow these steps to build your mount:

1. Cut the metal rod: Measure and cut a 12-inch length. Bend one end 6 inches from the end at a 90-degree angle using a vise or pliers. (Tip: Heat the rod slightly with a blowtorch to make bending easier.)
2. Slide on the PVC tubing: Cut a 6-inch piece of tubing and slide it over the straight end of the rod. This protects your kayak and adds grip.
3. Attach the camera mount: Screw or glue the 3-prong base to the bent end of the rod. Use epoxy for a permanent bond. Let it cure for 24 hours.
4. Add rubber pads: Stick rubber pads to the bottom of the straight end (where it contacts the kayak). This prevents scratches and reduces vibration.
5. Secure with hose clamps: Position the mount where you want it on the kayak. Slide two hose clamps over the PVC-covered end and tighten until snug. Don’t overtighten—you don’t want to dent the hull.
6. Test the stability: Gently shake the mount. If it wobbles, add a third clamp or adjust the position. A little movement is okay, but it should feel solid.

For a ball head version: Skip the bend. Attach the ball head directly to the top of the straight rod. Use a locking nut to prevent it from unscrewing mid-trip.

Pro Tips for a Professional Finish

• Paint the rod: Use marine-grade spray paint (like Rust-Oleum) to prevent rust, especially if you kayak in saltwater.
• Add a quick-release: Attach a GoPro quick-release buckle to the camera mount for easy removal.
• Use thread locker: Apply a drop of Loctite to screw threads to prevent loosening from vibration.
• Label your mount: Write “Front” or “Back” on it with a marker so you don’t mix it up with other gear.

Installation and Testing for Safety and Performance

Mounting on Different Kayak Types

Not all kayaks are the same. Here’s how to adapt your mount:

• Hard-shell kayaks (plastic or fiberglass): Use hose clamps or drill small holes for bolts. If drilling, seal the hole with marine sealant to prevent leaks.
• Inflatable kayaks (SOT or sit-inside): Avoid drilling. Use heavy-duty zip ties or a suction cup adapter (if the surface is smooth).
• Fishing kayaks with rod holders: Some have built-in accessory rails (like YakAttack). Use a track adapter instead of clamps for a cleaner look.

I once mounted a DIY rig on a friend’s inflatable kayak using zip ties. It held fine in calm water, but we lost it in a wave. Lesson learned: inflatables need extra security. Now I use a combination of zip ties and a rubberized strap for peace of mind.

Test Before You Paddle

Never trust a new mount on a long trip. Do these tests:

• Shake test: Push and pull the mount firmly. If it moves more than 1/4 inch, tighten the clamps or add a stabilizer.
• Water test: Spray the mount with a hose. Check for leaks, especially if you drilled holes.
• Short paddle test: Take a 15-minute spin in calm water. Record footage and review it. Look for vibrations, blurriness, or camera wobble.
• Emergency release test: If your camera detaches, make sure it floats. Attach a float strap or use a waterproof case with buoyant foam.

During my first test, the camera shook so much it was unusable. I added a rubber pad and tightened the clamps. The second test? Smooth as glass.

Maintenance, Troubleshooting, and Upgrades

Routine Care to Extend Your Mount’s Life

A little maintenance goes a long way:

• Rinse after each trip: Salt, sand, and dirt can corrode metal and clog moving parts.
• Check clamps and bolts: Tighten any that have loosened. Replace rusted or cracked parts immediately.
• Inspect the camera mount: Look for cracks or wear in the 3-prong base. Replace it if it’s damaged.
• Store properly: Keep the mount dry and out of direct sunlight when not in use.

I keep a small maintenance kit in my kayak: a mini wrench, spare clamps, and a microfiber cloth. It takes 5 minutes to clean and check everything after a trip.

Common Issues and How to Fix Them

Problem	Cause	Solution
Mount wobbles	Loose clamps or uneven surface	Tighten clamps; add rubber pads or shims
Camera blurry in footage	Vibration from water or paddle	Add a stabilizer (e.g., rubber grommets); use camera’s EIS mode
Mount rusts	Exposure to saltwater or moisture	Use stainless steel; apply anti-rust spray
Camera detaches	Weak mount base or vibration	Use epoxy; add a safety tether
Obstructed view	Mount too high or in wrong spot	Reposition; use a ball head for angle adjustment

Upgrade Ideas for Better Performance

Once your basic mount works, consider these upgrades:

• 3D-printed parts: Design a custom base or ball head using free software (like Tinkercad) and a local print shop.
• Remote control: Use a wireless remote (like GoPro’s The Remote) to start/stop recording without touching the camera.
• External power: Attach a USB power bank to the mount for all-day recording.
• Dual-camera setup: Add a second mount for a rear or side view. Sync recordings later for immersive videos.

I recently upgraded to a ball head with a remote. Now I can film myself paddling and adjust the angle on the fly—no more awkward arm stretches.

Building a DIY kayak action camera mount isn’t just about saving money. It’s about creating something tailored to your needs, learning new skills, and gaining confidence in your gear. Every time I see a smooth, stable video from my kayak, I remember the trial and error—and the pride of knowing I built it myself. Whether you’re chasing sunsets, fish, or just peace on the water, your camera deserves a mount as reliable as your paddle. So grab your tools, follow this guide, and get ready to capture your next adventure in stunning detail. And if you ever lose a camera to the depths? Well, at least you’ll have learned a lesson—and have a better mount for next time.

Frequently Asked Questions

What materials do I need to build a DIY kayak action camera mount?

You’ll need a sturdy plastic or metal bracket, waterproof adhesive, zip ties or stainless steel bolts, and a compatible action camera clip. These items are affordable and widely available at hardware or outdoor stores.

How do I attach a DIY kayak action camera mount securely?

Use marine-grade adhesive and stainless steel bolts or heavy-duty zip ties to fasten the mount to your kayak’s deck or rigging. Ensure the surface is clean and dry before attaching for maximum hold.

Can I make a DIY kayak action camera mount without drilling holes?

Yes, you can use strong adhesive mounts or clamp-style brackets that attach to existing kayak rails or handles. This no-drill method preserves your kayak’s integrity while still providing a stable platform.

Will a DIY kayak action camera mount withstand rough water conditions?

A well-built mount using durable materials and secure fastening methods can handle splashes, waves, and light impacts. Always test it in calm water first and check for looseness after use.

What’s the best position to mount an action camera on a kayak?

The bow, stern, or side rail are ideal spots for capturing forward motion or scenic views. Avoid placing it where paddles might hit the camera or block the lens.

Are there any safety tips when using a DIY kayak action camera mount?

Always double-check the mount’s security before launching and use a tether to prevent losing your camera. Avoid overloading the mount with heavy or unbalanced gear.